Intro:
Much of the information available on this style is muddled. This is mostly due to the fact that Florentine style has enjoyed several periods of popularity over the last 400 years, and as it waxed and waned, the style was updated to give us the aesthetic popular today. Most commonly, it is believed to have been first popular in the 17th century. However, there exists a few surviving pieces that show that this style was already fully developed by the latter half of the 16th century.
This style is called Florentine stitch, though also flame stitch. Some use these terms interchangeably with Irish Point, Hungarian point, and Bargello. However, neither Hungarian Point nor Bargello are synonymous with Florentine style. Florentine style uses a uniform stitch length laid in regular rows to create a flame-like or zig-zag pattern. Hungarian point varies the stitch length for a similar effect. Bargello is a more modern interpretation that varies stitch length, stitch direction, and overlaps rows for a distinct style that is only reminiscent of the 16th century look.
The consistency in colour scheme and patterning between the Parham hangings, and the Chastleton hangings speaks to an established process and enduring fashion for these items by the latter half of the 16th century.
The evidence that these embroideries were used as chair and footstool covers means that it is possible that many embroideries have been lost due to wear and tear. Therefore, while it's fair to say that the Parham hangings are the earliest surviving examples of this style, I don't believe them to be the beginnings of this style.
Much of the information available on this style is muddled. This is mostly due to the fact that Florentine style has enjoyed several periods of popularity over the last 400 years, and as it waxed and waned, the style was updated to give us the aesthetic popular today. Most commonly, it is believed to have been first popular in the 17th century. However, there exists a few surviving pieces that show that this style was already fully developed by the latter half of the 16th century.
This style is called Florentine stitch, though also flame stitch. Some use these terms interchangeably with Irish Point, Hungarian point, and Bargello. However, neither Hungarian Point nor Bargello are synonymous with Florentine style. Florentine style uses a uniform stitch length laid in regular rows to create a flame-like or zig-zag pattern. Hungarian point varies the stitch length for a similar effect. Bargello is a more modern interpretation that varies stitch length, stitch direction, and overlaps rows for a distinct style that is only reminiscent of the 16th century look.
The consistency in colour scheme and patterning between the Parham hangings, and the Chastleton hangings speaks to an established process and enduring fashion for these items by the latter half of the 16th century.
The evidence that these embroideries were used as chair and footstool covers means that it is possible that many embroideries have been lost due to wear and tear. Therefore, while it's fair to say that the Parham hangings are the earliest surviving examples of this style, I don't believe them to be the beginnings of this style.
Extant Examples:
This is the one piece that is firmly dated within SCA period. It came to Parham from Quenby Hall in Leicestershire around 1590. Interestingly, records show that some part of the original hangings were cut off to make chair covers prior to being sent to Parham. This implies that the hangings were already of an age to be re-purposed and may be older even than the 1580's. Indeed, in a 1993 edition of the Parham guide book, Needlework and Tapestry at Parham Park, Judith Doré speculates that they could be as early as 1560.
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The Florentine museum has several pieces dated to 1600. Once their technical difficulties are resolved and images are again displayed on their online catalogue, this page will be updated.
Uses:
Wall hangings, bed dressings, furniture upholstery. In Italy, there are tunics, chasubles, and other Ecclesiastical garments.
Time/Place:
The accessible extant pieces are in England, though there are many more examples in Italian museums. Indeed, this style is Italian, but it's clear that either the embroideries were exported, or the style was exported.
The English pieces are dated from 1560-1620. The Italian museum records have a date of 1600, but as their records are less detailed than what we have come to expect from the Anglophone museums, it's possible that these dates are approximations.
Design Features:
Motifs - A zig-zag/chevron type pattern.
Details - Even/consistent stitch length. Alternating bands of light and dark colours.
Stitches - Florentine Stitch.
Materials - Wool floss on linen scrim (a large hole "canvas").
Wall hangings, bed dressings, furniture upholstery. In Italy, there are tunics, chasubles, and other Ecclesiastical garments.
Time/Place:
The accessible extant pieces are in England, though there are many more examples in Italian museums. Indeed, this style is Italian, but it's clear that either the embroideries were exported, or the style was exported.
The English pieces are dated from 1560-1620. The Italian museum records have a date of 1600, but as their records are less detailed than what we have come to expect from the Anglophone museums, it's possible that these dates are approximations.
Design Features:
Motifs - A zig-zag/chevron type pattern.
Details - Even/consistent stitch length. Alternating bands of light and dark colours.
Stitches - Florentine Stitch.
Materials - Wool floss on linen scrim (a large hole "canvas").