Intro:
This page is called English Monochrome for two reasons. English because they had a particular style and other countries had slightly different fashions. Monochrome because we have examples of embroidery that wasn't black, so "blackwork" is inaccurate.
For the most part, ENGLISH monochrome embroidery is not counted. Even the patterns that look like they can be counted, turn out to be backstitch. There are no real *rules*. There is an example to support any design combination if you look hard enough.
This page is called English Monochrome for two reasons. English because they had a particular style and other countries had slightly different fashions. Monochrome because we have examples of embroidery that wasn't black, so "blackwork" is inaccurate.
For the most part, ENGLISH monochrome embroidery is not counted. Even the patterns that look like they can be counted, turn out to be backstitch. There are no real *rules*. There is an example to support any design combination if you look hard enough.
Extant Examples:
There are A LOT of Examples. Museums from all over have examples. We are awash in options and even though they can look wildly different they all embody certain common details. These are just some of my favourite pieces:
There are A LOT of Examples. Museums from all over have examples. We are awash in options and even though they can look wildly different they all embody certain common details. These are just some of my favourite pieces:
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This skirt seems to be unique, but could be a possible explanation for all the random "panels" and cushion covers that have clearly been made from something else.
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This jacket is good repair and demonstrates how each stitcher is different. It is unlined so we are able to see how tidy this stitcher was. But we can still clearly see the knots and floats.
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One of many "shirts". Men's shirts and night shirts are as common as women's smocks. This pattern probably came from a model book.
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Uses:
Clothes mostly. It decorated under clothes, night caps, coifs, ladies’ jackets, handkerchiefs, partlets, stomachers.
Time/Place
This particular style is English and starts around the second quarter of the 16th century and extends beyond the end of period.
In the late 16th century pretty much every culture was on the monochrome bandwagon. They say that it was Catherine of Aragon that brought the first black work to England with her, and the English made it their own.
Different cultures had different styles of monochrome embroidery. The German Modelbuch has portraits of nobles with white embroidery on their collars. The Italians and Spanish both had their thing.
Design Features:
Motifs - A variety of natural things: florals, fruits and vegetables (strawberries, grapes, pomegranates and peapods
were popular) with animals, birds and insects.
Details - Very little white space; stitching is all one colour, plus metallic accents.
Motifs were arranged in scroll work, strapping, grids, or diapered.
Stitches - Stem/outline stitch, backstitch. Sometimes buttonhole stitch, satin stitch, long-armed cross-stitch. A variety of others at
varying frequencies.
Metallics: ceylon stitch, plaited braid stitch, chain, spider web stitch
Materials - Linen ground fabric with silk floss (usually in black, but blue and red have also survived), gilt thread (silver or gold, not
both), spangles.
Clothes mostly. It decorated under clothes, night caps, coifs, ladies’ jackets, handkerchiefs, partlets, stomachers.
Time/Place
This particular style is English and starts around the second quarter of the 16th century and extends beyond the end of period.
In the late 16th century pretty much every culture was on the monochrome bandwagon. They say that it was Catherine of Aragon that brought the first black work to England with her, and the English made it their own.
Different cultures had different styles of monochrome embroidery. The German Modelbuch has portraits of nobles with white embroidery on their collars. The Italians and Spanish both had their thing.
Design Features:
Motifs - A variety of natural things: florals, fruits and vegetables (strawberries, grapes, pomegranates and peapods
were popular) with animals, birds and insects.
Details - Very little white space; stitching is all one colour, plus metallic accents.
Motifs were arranged in scroll work, strapping, grids, or diapered.
Stitches - Stem/outline stitch, backstitch. Sometimes buttonhole stitch, satin stitch, long-armed cross-stitch. A variety of others at
varying frequencies.
Metallics: ceylon stitch, plaited braid stitch, chain, spider web stitch
Materials - Linen ground fabric with silk floss (usually in black, but blue and red have also survived), gilt thread (silver or gold, not
both), spangles.